DennisD

Less is more with that image hazel. Finely detailed. The fruit of my effort this month.

Hi ricmetal, and welcome to Piriform. The answer to your query is CCleaner Professional, which updates without the need to go online. Unless the devs have a sudden generous change of mind and add this feature to the free version, then I'm afraid it's the browser road you'll have to keep taking. Hope that helps.

Hi Taipan, and welcome to the forum. The usual cause for recovered jpgs failing to open is that they were probably fragmented on the storage device (assuming you've already transferred them from your camera), and if you don't wipe a camera card before each photo session, they were probably already fragmented in your camera before you transferred them. Being fragmented, it's an extremely difficult task for a recovery program to find and recover all the fragmented pieces. Saying that, I've had some success displaying recovered jpgs which wouldn't display in other image handling applications, using a freeware program called "IrfanView". The link takes you to the portable version (no install). If any do open, then you will need to save each one as a new jpg. Sadly it doesn't work all the time, but well worth a try. Regarding corrupted image files, there's an interesting read here ... 5 Tools to Repair Corrupted JPEG Photos and Images (Some testing by raymond.cc) Sorry there isn't a magic fix for this.

How could we ever forget you ishan. Really nice to see you again and congratulations on the progression of your career. Hope you go from strength to strength.

Hi Scott, and welcome to Piriform. To be honest I had to google Carbonite to find out what it is exactly, and I soon found hits from other folk, who after carrying out a restore have had files not only duplicated but triplicated. Two examples below from the comments section of a website called "cloudwards". http://www.cloudwards.net/review/carbonite/ Scroll way down the page to find the comments quoted above, and many others besides. I gave up looking for other examples as it clearly seems to be a Carbonite issue. Personally, I prefer my important backups to be on external hard drives in the form of a "Macrium Image" File (used by many folk on here), and/or file and folder backups. In fact I have two backups of many many years of photographs, and each kept on separate hard drives. Each to their own of course, and I hope that helps.

If you want to run CCleaner without closing down your browser, then check the box shown in the following screenshot ... Just remember that the browser won't be cleaned until it's closed down and CCleaner is ran again. If you ever want to undo that option, that can be done by using the CCleaners "Save all settings to INI file" checkbox in "Options\Advanced". Then open the INI file in CCleaners "Program Files" folder by double clicking it, and alter the "ShowFirefoxCleanWarning=False" to "ShowFirefoxCleanWarning=True", or the entry for whichever browser you use. I don't know of an easier way to do it. Hope that helps.

A petition for them to buy the camera back would be good, but failing that, an option to use the camera to record to a USB drive would be useful. I can see my Granddaughter dancing her legs off in front of herself on the TV. Any other suggestions for it's use I can guarantee have already crossed my mind. Yep, that's all I could find as well hazel, but I appreciate the effort.

This one hazel ... VG-STC3000: I've been looking around for some kind of universal/generic type driver which may kick it into action but with no luck. I'm grabbing at straws as it's configured for Samsung TV's only. Of course no other webcam will work with their TV's. It does light up when stuck into my desktops USB port, but that's it.

Slightly off the topic (I'll slap my own wrist), but kinda related was an incident I saw in a supermarket car park the other day. Two cars had a slight mishap when they collided very slowly with each other. Instead of at least one irate driver jumping out of his car they both reversed in opposite directions at a frightening rate of knots and disappeared into the traffic. Wow, I thought. What's the chance of two obvious illegal cars (no insurance?) hitting each other and both doing a runner.

Anyone new to smart TV's and thinking of buying a dedicated TV Web Cam to run with the Skype app, then don't waste your money. http://buzznews.online/skype-is-ditching-its-smart-tv-apps-because-people-prefer-mobile-even-in-the-living-room-tech-times/ I'm particularly p****d about this as the Samsung web cam cost over £60 and appears to be impossible to use with anything else but a TV. If anyone knows different please let me know. I have to say it was a great system being able to see and talk with your family on a large screen TV in High Definition and with fluid movement (compared to my PC). Ah well. (Big sigh).

Love this guy ...

I'm actually using a Pale Moon version at the moment compiled for Win XP, and although I don't have an Intel Atom processor, it still runs as reliably as the old Firefox ... Pale Moon Version: 26.1.1 (Atom/WinXP) It's kept updated but not with the frightening rapidity of other browsers, and even my long serving "Winstripe Modern" theme works perfectly with it. Fascinating insight to Pale Moons development hazel. More power to their elbow.

You can't beat a bit of humour Corona, no matter how discombobulated folk may find it. I'm also with you on smart phones. Folk spending half their lives with a social media induced crick in the neck. Just saying .... or has someone already texted said that?

Yep, it either came direct from you or via a link to that Amberlight fractal thing. I've a few different ones I swap around.

This may be recognized by someone on here as I think I remember pinching it some time ago.

Hi Kelvinfrost. Like Nergal, I hadn't heard of a dbf file either, but have a look here. Might be useful. DBF Viewer Plus v1.74: (The Portable Freeware Collection) Authors Site: It's a simple standalone utility (no install) and both sites are reputable. I've had a look at the program myself out of curiosity, and although of no use to me, it does appear to be exactly what it's supposed to be. Hope that helps.

Hi Wicked Girl. Are you keeping any cookies by using CCleaners "Cookies To Keep" feature? As far as I'm aware Microsoft login details are usually kept in a cookie named "login.live.com". After logging in to your account, close the browser and run CCleaner. Have a look in "CCleaner/Options/Cookies" and see if "login.live.com" is sitting in the "Cookies to delete" window. If it is, move it across to the "Cookies to keep" window. Job done hopefully. If the above doesn't happen, then we'll go to plan B.

OK Jman, once you've done all your recovery to that other drive, and get to the point where you are sure you can't recover anything else, I'll outline my suggestions in full for you. I'm not being mysterious here, but my approach will eventually mean a write operation to the drive, which won't do any harm if you've completed and exhausted what you're doing now.

You're more than welcome, but the Minitools display doesn't look good as it shows you have more than a simple partition containing "unallocated space". The "bad drive" state is a problem and will probably make the suggestions I had more or less impossible. To confirm that, you could try running the "Partition Recovery Wizard" in Minitools and see what happens. If it does by chance complete you can safely go through the whole process to the point of, and including, pressing the "Finish" button. Nothing will actually happen until the "Apply" button in the top left corner is pressed, and you can press "Cancel" for now and let me know the outcome. What I think you will have to do (as I don't think Minitools will succeed), is attempt to repair what I think will be bad sectors on that card and this is something I've never personally had to do. (We're all volunteers here and not Piriform trained employees). All I can suggest is running chkdsk on the card and see what happens, and as you haven't mentioned which Operating System you're running I can't say how to do that other than how I would do it on my XP system ... Trying to fix a "bad disk" is something the other guys on here may have experience with and I'm sure they'll contribute if they have. For now, see if Minitools will run the Partition Recovery Wizard and let me know. It also has a "Check File System" feature which will probably not run simply because your attempts to format the card have failed, and it also has a "Surface Test" feature which probably will run and check the card for damaged sectors. I hope I haven't thrown too much at you here but have a try with the above and post back.

Good info Tas.

Hi JJJJ1. As I don't like, or intend, to step on the toes of my associates, can I just say that after you've exhausted the recovery process with Recuva and the sound advice you've received towards that goal, I could have another suggestion for you. If you achieve the results you want, then that would be great and you can ignore this post. If not, then I'll outline my suggestion, which would be one coming at the problem from a completely different angle. All I will say is that the possibility is available because you've done nothing more than "Quick Format" your drive, and is also dependent on you not carrying out any "write" operations to the drive in the meantime. Because this is primarily a Piriform Support Forum, then Recuva has priority over my suggestions, but I'm mentioning this in case you do do any further "write" operations, which would jeopardize what I have in mind.

That screenshot says a lot actually. The "unallocated space" as it's usually called could still contain your files. It's showing like that probably because the boot sectors of the drive (your card) which contain the essential "file system/partition information" needed for a computer (or any hardware) to know what is actually on the drive. are corrupt. In my opinion, the best option based upon your info is to have a try at searching for, and then restoring the original partition. It's impossible to say as to whether your excursion into formatting has caused damage which would prevent this option from having any success but until we give it a try we'll never know. There are a couple of programs we could use to investigate this, and the first one I would like you to download is ... MiniTool Partition Wizard Home Edition 8.1.1: (Home version - free) Once installed, fire it up with your card plugged in and give me a screenshot of how MiniTools displays it. By the way, we wouldn't do anything to your card which could make things worse until we first get you to make a back-up "Image" of it using the following free tool ... USB Image Tool: If anything we try fails, then the back-up Image can be restored to the card to try something else, and just to avoid any confusion with this tool, use the "Device Mode", not the "Volume Mode". If you want to go ahead with these suggestions then I'll help with any advice you need, but be aware that as mentioned above I have no idea what damage, if any, was done to the card by the failed formatting but I don't think you have anything to lose by trying.

I wouldn't worry about that entry Dan if you have DivX installed as it's more than likely related to that install. You didn't say how long you've been aware of it, but if whatever it is has been disabled for any length of time, and everything is fine with your computer and DivX in particular I would just leave it as is. You could delete it, but being disabled is the next best thing and the fact that you will have the option to enable it again sometime if needed (probably never) could be a comfort. And of course being disabled it can't do anything except sit there and annoy you ... if you let it. I have a few entries I could safely delete as they've been disabled for a long time, but I just leave them there and forget them. Hope that helps Dan as DivX is the only hit I've had after quite a few different search attempts with varying search parameters.

Windows 10 working great here. Window 10P that is.