DennisD

Hi rick, and welcome to the forum. Sorry but you can't do that sadly. Are you scanning the drive you want to reboot (system drive)? If so shutting down will involve more writing to the drive (saving settings etc.) which will already be active and possibly overwriting data you want to recover. If a non active drive then no worries but you will have to start again. However, if you are well past stage1 of the scan, stopping it will still display a lot of files, maybe the ones you want without having to start over. Hope that helps.

The little guy seems quite excited about the prospect of someone pressing yes on that security warning. Odd little fellow.

Ten days and two postings. Come on guys, new year, new desktops. This one makes a 2nd one from me, a pear in fact ...

This is purely again from memory and even a link to go with it. You use standby on both machines? I recollect from a lot of years ago that coming out of standby could cause various issues with XP. One I experienced in 2007 could have been caused by this, and that is the dreaded DMA mode reverting to PIO. Read from post# 8 which I've linked to. https://forum.piriform.com/index.php?showtopic=12333&do=findComment&comment=84636 As I was using standby at that time I looked around for other issues that it could cause and there were a few in way of things not working as they should such as monitors not getting a signal, computer not being able to wake at all, or sundry things causing a premature wake up. There was a complete list of the glitches waking from standby could cause with XP and they were listed at Kellys-Korner. Sadly that page isn't any more ... http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/?f Needless to say, I have never used standby since then and never will. It's well within the bounds of possibility that waking from standby could set up a glitch that isn't instantly evident. Between your two rigs, standby is one of the common denominators. If your freeze returns I would try kicking standby into touch for a while maybe. Gotta be worth a shot even if it's a long one. And this other idea is me just thinking out loud really. Why is that? If every house in a street was constantly being burgled except for one, I might start looking at that one house as maybe belonging to the burglar. Maybe Process Explorer is carrying a little guilt here? That elusive needle might be right under yer nose as they say. If it was my computer I would get rid of it for a while if only to eliminate it. Seems odd that one program in particular is always working within it's window during this incomplete lock up. Waking from standby might just be setting up something to be triggered by something else. With computers anything is possible. Probably very long shots squire, but I think ideas are getting towards the exhaustive stage and I would try absolutely anything that's easy and painless to try. Not to mention completely free from financial pain.

My connected toilet has me doing that already. Timed flush is on by default ... dunno how to change it.

Am I right in saying that you've had this lock up with two different rigs? Your XP machine and another machine dual booting XP with another operating system? 59 posts are a lot to absorb without a synapse firing glitch happening sometime before the end. I was going to suggest two simple operations which may have had some success with one machine, but two different machines? Maybe not, but I'll mention them anyway as they're easy peasy to do. First one is a solution hazel found for her XP machine when she had a "freezing" problem in 2006. What a memory eh, for the guy who can't remember which day it is!! It's the "Static Discharge Routine". The problem wasn't the exact same as yours but it was a "freezing" problem. No telling what static can do, and I've tried this myself. With the mains power off the computer power light does illuminate momentarily when the on switch is held in, showing the presence of residual power. Static? Have a read here, and notice the names in that topic. Some good friends there no longer around for one reason or another ... https://forum.piriform.com/?showtopic=6853 The solution comes in post #7. The second one is a suggestion mta made a wee while back and you haven't said as to whether you tried it or not. Clear out the dust. I've recently discovered just how destructive dust can be and I've spared your topic that story as I've placed it in a new one in the lounge. https://forum.piriform.com/index.php?showtopic=47609 I've linked to it as the problems dust can cause can be really severe. Surprisingly so.

I've just had an eye opening experience with the destructive power of dust in electrical connections. I have an Arcam Alpha II hi-fi amp I bought back in 1984, which I replaced about 11 years ago due to ever worsening R and L channel drop out combined with intermittent crackling which was becoming less intermittent and serious as time went on. It got really bad. It was sadly replaced (sadly because it was an award winning amp) and confined to the depths of a cupboard. And there it stayed until very recently when the replacement amp developed a serious sound balance problem (no crackling). Have no intention of sending good money after bad having it repaired as these days free estimates don't exist with audio engineers. It was gonna cost about £50 just to have it looked at. Been there and done that with a CD player the year before last and all I got for my trouble was being £50 out of pocket. So (temporarily I thought), out came the Arcam as I remember being able to get it to work by jiggling the selector switches and tape loop switch (that's tape recording for the benefit of the children here). And just as when I packed it away 11 years ago I could get clear sound for at least 5 minutes before the jiggling act was further required. Not perfect, but would do until I could get a new amp. Anyways, while looking on line at new amps, I decided to have a google for the causes of crackling and channel drop out, and a great many different suggestions were being put forward on various forums. Replace this, replace that etc, but the most basic possible cause was dust! No way could dust cause such serious crackling and complete loss of sound in either/both L and R stereo channels. Could it? As it was a very cheap outlay for a possible fix I thought what the hell, give it a go. Bought myself a can of compressed air and a can of what is without doubt the best electrical switch cleaner/lubricant out there, Servisol Super 10, and proceeded to blast out and then lubricate every pot (potentiometer) and switch I could find as well as cleaning the dust from the entire board/ power supply etc.. Connected it back into my system and miracle of miracles, that 34 year old amplifier sounded like new. And now after being used constantly for a few weeks, there is still not a crackle from anywhere and left and right channels are rock steady and equally balanced. Selector switches, volume, balance and tone controls are also completely silent. Crackle free. I was gobsmacked. I didn't have the internet when I consigned this thing to the cupboard and would never have thought it was anything other than a costly part or parts replacement. So for an outlay of £13 total I've saved myself the cost of a new amp. I thought the sound may be different after all these years, maybe slightly harder, an edge to it maybe. Not so, still a lovely punchy but smooth sound, probably better than the replacement I bought. The moral of this story is obvious. Don't underestimate the damage dust can do to switches and pots in electrical equipment. The shorting out it can cause can be surprisingly severe. Try cleaning and lubricating before anything else. You may get a surprise as I most surely did. And thus ends today's lesson.

Hi Borkman, and welcome to the forum. Before we go into any other options you may have, try scanning your drive again, but press cancel once you get past stage1. At the very latest before you hit that 66% sticking point in stage2. You should still have a great many, if not all, recoverable files listed. It's impossible to tell what the glitch is, but the fact that it's a problem drive means it could either be a corrupt file or a drive surface issue. Probably the former. Firstly ... Go into "Options/General" and in the "View Mode" box select "Tree View". This will display the results of your scan in a tree view folder structure, similar to the folder structure the lost files originally resided in. This will enable you to select the folder/files you need to recover rather than have a long list of files you would have to either sort through, or recover every file found. Secondly ... Go into "Options/Actions" and select "Restore folder structure". This will save any recovered files/folders into a copy of their original location (folders/subfolders) on whichever drive you recover them to. If you don't get too much joy from this, there are other options to try so post back how you get on. EDIT: Also go into "Options/Actions" and select "Scan for non deleted files" if you haven't already done that.

Hi longknife, and welcome to the forum. How are you selecting SMS messages to be deleted? I can't find anywhere within CCleaners settings to do that. Unless CCleaner displays different settings for Android 4.2.2. than it does for 5.1 (my phone), which would surprise me but probably not impossible. Or, you have the Pro version which I don't, and you have extra options within the settings dialogue? Other than that, the only place I can find SMS messages is in CCleaners "Manual cleaning apps" section which appears after analysing. If that is the case, when selecting one of those items CCleaner simply takes you to that item to manually clean cache, data, or in this case SMS messages. You have to do it yourself and then back button to CCleaner again. Let me know exactly what you have and we'll take it from there.

Hi Joe, and welcome to the forum. If your license has expired can I assume you've had it for 12 months? If that is the case, then have a read here ... https://piriform.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204044434-How-long-is-my-license-valid-for- Hope that helps.

Hi mgillman, and welcome to the forum. If your drive comes up as RAW, then it means it's viewed by Windows as "Unallocated Space". Which means you have the option to attempt a restore of the partition on that drive using partitioning software. If the software does find unallocated space then it will search that space for traces of the partition which has been lost. If that's successful, it will rewrite the MBR of the drive to restore that partition. One or two "ifs" here, but I can assure you that I've restored lost partitions on my own drives over the years, and is something I would always try before going down the road of "Quick Formatting" the drive. That's the last option, but could also work as neither "Quick Formatting" nor the above mentioned rewriting of the MBR would touch the file data contents on the drive. A quick format would reinitialize the file system, give the drive a letter, thus enabling Recuva to scan it. Have a look here for a number of free, reputable partition recovery programs. https://forum.piriform.com/index.php?showtopic=47540&do=findComment&comment=279187 All these programs have detailed guides but if you get stuck I may be able to offer some assistance. Hope that helps.

Give it a week or so, and if you still haven't had a response post back here, and I'll point the admin to this topic.

Damn, I was all set to pm you my address before I opened the topic.

Works the same for me although it's a shame that Version: 26.5.0 (Atom/WinXP) is the final version for XP. No worries here though. Will stay with it.

Hi David, and welcome to the forum. The recovered pics are probably incomplete in some way. Missing header information or fragmented maybe. The only software I've found that can sometimes open incomplete photos is "IrfanView". Portable version available here ... http://www.freewarefiles.com/IrfanView-Portable_program_73548.html It's opened photographs for me which actually had sections missing so is well worth a try. If you do open any of your pics, save them off as a new image from within the program. Other than that, I can't offer anything although others may, so good luck and hope that helps.

Hi defendmy, and welcome to the forum. Your lack of a response is probably due to the fact that the Piriform support staff will be off for the holiday period. Unlike us volunteers who are slaving away for 365 days of the year. Seriously, be patient and I'm sure they'll respond when they get back up and running, although they'll surely have a backlog to catch up. Hope that helps.

Still here Tas, and on to another single malt. And a New Years resolution made.

This has to be a good year I've beaten Tas to the first post. Happy New Year to all you guys, and a second Happy New Year to mta.

Happy New Year mta. Hope everyone has a good one.

If you don't want to go down the road of removing Avast, which means running with no A/V or installing a substitute (albeit temporarily), why don't you try the version I've been running with no issues since 2011, ie Avast version 6.0.1367. I believe that some, not all, software written while XP was still very relevant, will work better, with less chance of glitches or worse, than software written with Windows 10 in mind. One of these being Avast. I'm fortunate in that the program side of the Avast installation isn't the most important part. The important parts being the "Engine" and "Virus Definitions" updates, which as I said earlier are still faultlessly updated. I've found that many latest versions of various programs will cause my machine to slow down and lag seriously, whereby versions written during the XP days cause no issues at all. One of the reasons I've been using Palemoon (Atom XP) for a few years now. Current versions of Opera and Firefox just strangle my machine and max out the CPU. Definitely worth a try, and the link is for OldApps.com, although I can upload my installer for you if you so desire. Saying that, disregard the entire post if you wish. Refusal never offends. Entirely up to yourself.

Some other good programs with the ability to recover partitions ... EaseUs Partition Recovery: (Free version) MiniTool Partition Wizard 9.1: (Free version) TestDisk: (Free) ... TestDisk step by step to recover a missing partition: I'm by no means an expert with this stuff, but have used them with some success, so may be able to help if you get stuck. Hope that helps.

I knew I had a bookmark for this, unfortunately it was filed in a safe place which almost assured I wouldn't find it again. https://www.wilderssecurity.com/threads/windows-xp-firewall.218517/ An excellent detailed description of the XP firewall. Probably one of the best ever one way firewalls, and I think it was first posted on here by hazel.

Hi SFMarcopolo, and welcome to the forum. Actually there are quite detailed instructions on how to save/keep cookies in the CCleaner docs here ... http://www.piriform.com/docs/ccleaner/ccleaner-settings/choosing-which-cookies-to-keep Have a look and see if the how-to solves your problem. I don't use the latest Firefox myself so maybe something within the browser has changed and is removing your log ins. One of my illustrious fellow members may be able to answer that one. If you still lose your log ins please post back with your version of CCleaner, version of Firefox and your Operating System, and we can look further into the issue. Hope that helps.

Have you downsized Tas? Cool house.

It's not one of mine either, but it just sprung to mind as I read the topic, so I thought I would share. Mind you if you want to talk about pictures hanging straight, benches and shelves being "spirit level" level and other similar foibles, then I'm your man. A noble edit all the same and seeing as it's Christmas, nine ten out of ten. Apologies to the OP My_truckalogue for hijacking his topic, but I'm sure he won't mind. It's Christmas.