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    Illinois, USA
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    Hardware / software troubleshooting, open-source / freeware, Popular Mechanics, my g/f, and hufu.
  1. Just tried out the new Release Candidate. Works flawlessly. Thanks for the fantastic new CCleaner, MrG. Keep up the great work!
  2. I like this first feature; CCleaner is one step closer to being a portable app! Fantastic work MrG, as always.
  3. lokoike

    Did You Know

    Tru dat. Only a matter of time before they come out with Microsoft Employee trading cards. Sad. And 9 different variations of an operating system is an atrocity. Confuse the hell out of the consumer; what an excellent business approach. I agree with you guys: one main version of the OS is plenty sufficient. If MS wants to market versions of Windows with additional features separately, why not just sell those individual features as downloadable add-ons to the main OS? Not only would that be easier for the consumers, but it would be cheaper for Microsoft too, since they wouldn't have to mess around with advertising and packaging 9 totally different products!
  4. lokoike

    Forum update

    Old skoolin it. That's just how I roll. @ MrG: Thanks again for all the time you put into the way cool update!
  5. lokoike

    Forum update

    Whoa, this is pretty cool. With the addition of "friends" and "comments" and all of that schtuff, it kinda feels like MySpace... except this actually looks nice and works!
  6. Both boards listed are good boards. In the more expensive board, you are basically paying for the NVIDIA North Bridge (the cheaper board uses an Intel North Bridge). If SLI is extremely important to you, I would probably go with the more expensive board, because of the better North Bridge. But, the board with the Intel North Bridge is still a good board, for far less money. Not to mention, it has a couple more SATA II ports to boot. Just a note (a little off topic, but I thought I'd throw my two cents in here): while Intel may be leading the CPU market by a small (very small) margin, I wouldn't give up on AMD. AMD procs have always been fantastic, and when AMD releases their next line of procs, you may very well wish you had stuck with socket AM2 (assuming they retain the same socket, which I would imagine they will). That isn't to say that you should only use AMD or only use Intel, I'm just saying look carefully at both companies before making your final decision on which mobo and processor to buy. I am currently using AMD, and unless Intel gives me a really good reason to switch over, I will use AMD on my next build as well.
  7. Hey Lebpride, Looks like a lovely system indeed. I can vouch for your mobo, as I use the non-SLI version of that board in almost all of the computers I have built for others. ASUS mobos in general are great because they run cool and quiet and have very full-featured BIOS'. Your CPU is good, but I do have a question: do you intend to do any overclocking? If not, I would recommend getting the low-power version of that CPU, since right now it costs the same as the high-powered version. If you don't overclock your CPU, the lower-power version will run just as fast, but it will consume less power and generate less heat. Just something to keep in mind. As far as optical and hard drives go, might I recommend the following: Hard drive - Lots of storage at a reasonable price, plus Seagate's 5-year warranty; I have two of these in my PC and they perform great. Optical drive - Also used this one quite a few times, and it works good. Burns fast, doesn't make too much noise, and has LightScribe support, if you want to label your discs with your drive. Let us know how your first build goes for you. Good luck!
  8. I've gotta agree with Andavari: I'm pretty skeptical on this one. I mean seriously, how many times have you guys seen "proven" all-natural weightloss solutions in the form of a pill? Or what about all of the lotions that make a bald person grow a full head of hair, or a person with acne instantly have clear skin? Those are tall enough orders in themselves, and rarely do they have any effect whatsoever. And now someone claims to have discovered a molecule that reverses aging? I would very highly doubt it. Frankly, I have a feeling that the limits of this "drug" will be found soon enough, and it will end up as another anti-wrinkle cream lined up on a shelf with the rest of them. I guess time will tell, but I'm not getting my hopes up just yet.
  9. Is the new project another freeware application? If so, PLEASE take your time! I think that most of the other CCleaner forum users would agree with me that they would much rather see a stable freeware application released a few months late than a buggy commercial application released "on time." I know that CCleaner is a lot of work, and MrG deserves a break just like anyone else! So thank you MrG for all of the hard work you put into CCleaner, and thank you for creating even more great software releases for us. ( which will hopefully be freeware )
  10. lokoike

    New Drive

    Hey res, SATA drive installations are as easy as pie (which is presumably very easy...). Like you said, you pretty much just plug in the power and data cables and fire it up. A few things to note, since this is your first time with a SATA drive: 1. Make sure the mobo supports SATA! Make sure there are SATA inputs on the board (if you don't know what one looks like, I can post a picture for you). 2. If the drive you buy is listed as OEM, instead of Retail, you will most likely have to provide your own SATA data cable and hard drive screws, since all you will receive is the drive and some bubble wrap. OEM drives generally don't come with documentation, instructions, cables, screws, a box, etc. You pay less, but you get the bare minimum. 3. Make sure your PSU has a SATA power out, since SATA drives don't use standard molex for power. If the PSU has only molex, you can buy an adapter such as this one, which converts a molex end into SATA. 4. Seagate SATA 2 drives have a small gray-colored jumper on the back that forces the drive to perform in SATA 1 mode (1.5 Gbs bandwidth, as opposed to 3 Gbs). For some stupid reason, this jumper is installed by default, so if your mobo supports SATA 2, the drive won't take advantage of it. To fix this, just remove the jumper from the drive. Easy fix. 5. And of course, lastly, make sure your BIOS is set to boot from CD first, so that when you put in the Windows OS install disk, it will boot that up, instead of trying to boot from the new, empty hard drive. Let us know how your first SATA drive install goes!
  11. lokoike


    I don't use Linux, although I did put Ubuntu Linux on my friend's computer. One thing I noticed is that Linux does not use the same types of file systems as those used by Windows (i.e. FAT16, FAT32, NTFS, etc.). So most likely, Windows doesn't treat your hard drive as a formatted drive, since it isn't formatted with a file system supported by Windows. However, since Windows does realize you have a drive, it will still show up in Device Manager. Essentially, Windows realizes you have a hard drive plugged into the computer, but it just assumes it is a blank, unformatted, unpartitioned drive. Windows will not be able to use the drive until you format it with a Windows file system (which will, of course, remove the Linux file system and OS). So unless you create a partition on the Linux drive with a Windows file system on it, Windows will not be able to use that drive.
  12. @ Stephen: That is pretty much the order that I build my systems in. Although, depending what type of CPU heatsink/fan you use, you may have to install that onto the mobo before you put your mobo into the case. For example, on my PC, I didn't use the stock AMD heatsink/fan, and since the one I used had it's own backplate, I had to put the CPU and cooler onto the motherboard before I put it into my case. And as far as your drives go, the order doesn't really make a difference (unless the drive installation order affects how you route your wires). I personally don't test the BIOS right away, just because I assume it will work. I suppose I could test every component before actually beginning the build, but it is so time consuming. I prefer to just build the computer, power it up, and then troubleshoot (if any troubleshooting is even necessary, which usually it is not). One suggestion I will offer when it comes to wiring: twisty-ties. Lots and lots of twisty-ties. I use twisty-ties as opposed to zip-ties or rubber bands, etc. for a few reasons: 1. They are readily available in large quantities for little or no money; when you buy a box of trash bags, usually they include tons of them. 2. They aren't permanent. They can be used, undone, and then reused. With zip-ties, you use them once, and if you want to get them off later to change your wiring, you have to cut them, thus rendering them unusable. 3. If they are too long, you don't have to cut them; just keeping twisting them around the cables until there is no extra. So yeah... twist-ties FTW. And that's pretty much all I know.
  13. Oops! Sorry about that; I knew what it was, I just typed the wrong thing. But yeah, the reason it is slower is because it has 4 pixel pipelines disabled (which is also the reason it runs cooler and therefore only takes up one slot). Still, not a bad card. I've used Sapphire cards a few times. I did have one that I bought go bad after a short while, but the other couple that I've used had no problems. They were all Radeon x1000 series cards as well. If you spend a little more, you could get the 512 MB version of the Radeon x1950XT. I've got a Radeon x1900XT w/ 512 MBs of GDDR3, and in Half-Life 2 with all settings maxed and a resolution of 1680x1050, I get almost zero lag. I think right now my card is in the $350 range, but if you want the extra video memory, the extra money spent is definitely worth it.
  14. Here are a few cards that I found Stephen: ~ High End ~ Sapphire Radeon x1950XT - This one is the fastest, but it takes up two slots; I'm not sure if that makes a difference to you, but I thought I should mention it ATI Radeon x1950XT - This one is a little bit slower, a little less expensive, and it only takes up one slot ~ Mid Range ~ ATI Radeon x1650PRO - This one's got 512 MBs of GDDR2, and a pretty decent core, although significantly slower than the x1900 series ASUS Radeon x1650XT - This one is the slowest, but not by a very big margin; not to mention, it only costs $150! If you want to save some cash, and sacrifice a little performance, this is by no means a bad card There were tons of other cards that fit your budget, but these are all from companies that I really like. Diamond and HIS Hightech also had some pretty good deals, but I've never bought from them before, so I can't really recommend them. Let me know what you think.
  15. Right now Nvidia's DX10 card runs in the $500-$600 range, so if you do want DX10 capabilities, you'll be better off waiting a few months for ATI's card to come out. The competition should bring down the price on both company's cards. But something to keep in mind, DX10 isn't even really in use right now (other than by Windows Vista), so if you buy a DX9c card, you'll still be just fine. Also, I've heard (and don't quote me on this) that DX10 runtimes won't even be made for Windows XP, so if you want to use a DX10 card to it's full potential, you'll be forced to upgrade to Vista. Once again, I'm not positive on that, but that is what I have heard. There are plenty of fantastic DX9 cards in the $200-$300 range. I have to head off to work, but if I get time tonight, I'll drop you some links to cards that I like.
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